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The Hills Are Alive!

Writer's picture: Ricardo JimenezRicardo Jimenez

Updated: Sep 16, 2022


Above: View From Jakob's Porch

WOW! These past 5 days do not seem real.


I arrived in Austria, specifically, Bad Mitterndorf (a town in middle Austria) Thursday night to meet up with my friend and amazing musician Jakob Rodlauer, whom I met back in 2019 after attending a Christmas concert where he played. I didn't have much time to take in the breathtaking views (as seen above) before we hit the town. I didn't know when I was coming but the day I came happened to also be the birthday of one of Jakob's good friends and almost his entire friend group was there to celebrate. After introductions and a few beers, we went to the bar. It was a relatively small bar, but what it lacked in size it made up for in character. Bad Mitterndorf is a relatively small town, maybe 5,000 people, but you get the sense that everyone kind of knows everyone, especially in the music community. For those of us musicians in Chicago, we know how much the scene can feel like a family and how relatively "small" it is.


There is so much that happened even on this one night, so please bear with me as I try to keep my events in order! Upon, getting to the bar I learned of a drink that is pretty common to get, called a "Spritzer"; it's sparkling water (soda) with white wine. Seems tame, but I've been told they add up and sneak up on you! I also very quickly learned at the bar, that ordering Bacardi shots is apparently super weird here. The bartender told me I was the first person ever in his bar to order them, but hey, what a way to leave a lasting impression! (I don't know, you guys tell me, is ordering Bacardi shots just a "Ricardo" thing?) Needless to say, the Bacardi shots were not a hit.

Almost everyone that came by to celebrate Jakob's friend's birthday was a musician, and we all know what inevitably happens when you put too many musicians in one room. There just so happened to be a guitar on the wall and not only one, but three guitarists in the room! We started the jam session right then and there, playing jazz standards and pop tunes, and everyone joined in. (and yes, of course, some harmonica was played :D! )


I also learned a new drinking game (which is rare considering I went to college in Wisconsin) called "Meiern." Apparently, it's not just a made-up game but a game that is traditional to the region that many people know. To play you need about a dozen or more coasters, dice, and a small dice cup (like in Yahtzee). Everyone gets three lives (the coasters) and the game starts by shaking the dice in the cup. Only you look inside and tell people what the number is, always read the highest number dice first. (btw you can also lie and make up a high number!) Then you pass the cup and dice to the next person and they have to roll something higher than the number you said. If they do they just pass it and the game continues until someone gets the highest number possible (21 known as the "Meiern") or loses a life, upon which the game restarts. Now, if you did not roll higher than the person before you, you have three options; 1) you shake the dice again and see if you can get higher, if you do you pass it on. 2) you can blindly shake the dice and pass it and just say "my number is the same or higher" and you have to hope that you're right! 3) Shake it, lie, and hope they don't call you on it! If you lose all your lives you have to buy everyone a shot of beer or spritzer. I probably did not explain it that well but trust me when I say it's fun!


The next day, Friday, we rehearsed for the gig that Pat Pagnonin's (another good friend I had met back in 2019 and amazing bassist and instrument maker!) group had that evening at a Villa in a neighboring town. There I got to meet Phillip, an eccentric character with a great sense of humor and an even better sense of musicality when you put a violin in his hands!


The Villa was absolutely beautiful, built originally in the 1800s by the owner's grandfather, whose research into vortices was groundbreaking. (They are looking for a buyer for anyone interested!) The villa was only part of the appeal. I found that here in the countryside of Austria the gig life is good. We showed up to the gig about an hour before and were shown the free beer that we could have in the cooler and then had a few quick bites before the musicians took a quick smoke outside (at this point it was 7:15pm and we were supposed to start playing at 7pm). The owner of the Villa comes outside and says maybe we could start the music soon but no rush, please take your time!" We played on the staircase for about 30-40min, which is where we got this amazing renaissance-looking photo, and then took another break for maybe 30-40 min. We ate more food, had more beer, and then it was time to move to the main room to play for maybe 45-50min and took another maybe 30-40min break while we chat and were shown around the house and talked with the guests while having some dessert. The shocking part for me is how well each musician got paid! (I donated my cut back to the band itself) After being so shocked at this gig experience, they told me that this was common for them here in middle Austria.

Most of the gigs they played were super relaxed, and chill and they took regular breaks while getting as many free drinks and food as could fill their heart's content. Not to mention, the audience members, but also everyone so far, are some of the nicest people I have ever met (and I'm from the Midwest!) There is such a respect and appreciation for music here that is so deep and genuine. I feel like I've been missing out; maybe a move to Austria is in store after this trip!





Saturday was an off day for us. We woke up late, given that we were out playing until midnight. We met up with Pat and Maria in the neighboring town of Bad Aussee, where we had lunch, burgers, and beer. Jakob took me to his family home after lunch where I met his grandmother.

She was sewing in the side house and invited us for homemade Schnapps and a snack. Despite the language barrier, we were actually able to have a great conversation and they told me about their family farm and the animals they have. Unfortunately, I was not able to see the cows as they were up in the mountain grazing for the season, but I did see the sheep!

After that, we all met back up at an event in the evening called "Berge im Flammen" which means "Mountain on Fire." It is a tradition where farmers from the area ascend the mountain top and light a fire to illuminate the mountain top and face. Although, because of current environmentalist efforts, they used electronic lights to carry on the tradition. The event itself was much more of a celebration with live music, dancing, food, and drink. What was even more spectacular was sitting on the pier for the firework show at the end of the event! (Really gave Disney a run for their money!). Even though it was late at night, we ended the evening back at the bar, where I learned a new drinking game; this one I can't explain but it's fun!


Sunday was back on with a gig in the evening. We decided to start with what I can best describe as a flea market. Jakob explained to me that here in middle Austria, the fire department is comprised mainly of volunteers, so once every few months, the firefighters go around to people's homes and collect donations of anything and everything to then sell in the middle of town. All the money raised during this sale goes to support the firefighters. It is a very big community-building event and it seems like everyone gets together to make a good effort to buy, donate, or help out.

It was a really hot day, but we met up with our friends at the flea market and decided to go to an RC car race at a nearby friend's house. There we met some more musicians from the area who were renting out the house to make an album at the end of the month. That day, however, we were just enjoying great company and great weather. We sat under the shade of a tree while they shared stories with one another while taking turns to see who could get the best time around the track that had been cut into the grass.

Being that it was so hot, a small group of us, Jakob, Pat, Maria, a great clarinetist and singer, and I decided to go to the lake for a swim.

We drove to a nearby lake and rented a paddle boat. Wow, did I learn how out of shape I am trying to power the paddle boat? We rode to the other end of the lake and parked the boat at the shore. Because we're in the mountains the shoreline is rocky, but wow was the scenery beautiful. The water was freezing cold, but my Austrian friends just jumped right in! I slowly wadded in after about 10 minutes after much encouragement. (I take after my mother in this respect. Love you, mom!)

After the lake, it was time to go to the gig! We arrived early so we could enjoy some fresh juice and place our orders (starters, entree, and dessert) before getting ready to play. A pleasant surprise, my uncle Gwillem and his parents, who had graciously hosted me for Christmas back in 2019, showed up to hear the music! We played, drank, and ate similarly as the Friday before. This time, however, I feel the barriers that are common when first meeting others were lowered and we were able to have more meaningful conversations. I got to share parts of myself and the part of themselves that really gave the other a window into their life. I shared with them how negative I can be about myself and my playing and my struggle with music and trumpet. I shared with them that this journey for me is one of rediscovery and how important, if not vital that rediscovery is not only for my path in music but life in and of itself. Phillip shared with me something I found very insightful. Part of this year is not just about the rediscovery of self and music, but the new discovery of connections that bind things together. He told me, "Sometimes the connection is not always obvious. Sometimes you have to look at something from a new perspective, maybe one that you can't do alone, or wouldn't think of by yourself." He gave me a real-life example. There is a genre of Austrian and Romanian music that sounds completely different. The meter is different, the tonality is different, and the rhythms and melodies have almost nothing in common. Where is the connection? The dance. The dance is exactly the same, but if you are only looking at it from the perspective of music you miss it.

"Be open to new connections"

The gigging marathon ended Monday night, but that doesn't mean we didn't make the most out of the day. We woke up early in the morning so we could attend the "Pfeiferltag Sausteigalm", fife day in the mountains, an event that only happens once a year where fife players from Austria, as well as military drum players, come together at a farm, or "Alm", usually in the mountains, to play traditional music. The tradition started in 1925 and has been going on ever since, the only exception being the war years. Given that it was in the mountains, we had to walk up to the "Alm." The hike was not that bad, only 1.5 km, but it was very steep and Jakob and I shared the job of carrying the bass clarinet case up the mountain. The hike was completely worth it for the view. It was beautiful. Everyone was in Lederhosen and Dirndls, and there was music happening everywhere. Shortly after arriving, we met the organizer of the event, who was carrying a ledger that dates back to the very first Pfeifltag in 1925. I even got to sign it!


After grabbing lunch and a beer, we walked to a lower hut where the crowd was much bigger. There we met up with Phillip who was sitting with what Jakob described to me as one of, if not the best folk musician in Austria, Hermann Härtel. He was also with two amazing musicians, one was playing the hurdy-gurdy, who I only know as Simon Wascher, and a Chilean musician, Martin Lorie, playing the "charango." Traditionally, only fifes are played before 12pm, but in the afternoon other instruments are welcome to join, such as clarinet, violin, hurdy-gurdy, and even the charango. It was awe-inspiring to hear the traditional songs played and sung and the joy that emanated from the musicians and the audience. It was not about how good anyone was, but about the joy of honoring and continuing the tradition. The beauty about that particular day, however, was also incorporating Chilean, Venezuelan, and even Mexican traditional music into the event. There is so much in common between the folk music of South America with Bavarian and Austrian folk music. It was incredible to find the connection and have everyone so willing to jump in and try it. What I came to love the most was the yodeling and the rhythmic clapping that is typical of the music. Both are featured in the video below. What I found particularly fascinating was my talk with Simon and Jakob about the clapping. It is not just random polyrhythmic clapping, but every individual has a role or a specific rhythm to clap. The connection we found was with Bata drumming. To someone unfamiliar with the music, it can seem random and haphazard, but each of the three drums has a specific role to play and within these roles, there is room for improvisation.

The day ended with a gig at one of the most scenic places I have ever been in my entire life. It was another gig filled with great music, and great food and drinks, but what was special was the surprise guest at the end of the gig. Hermann, Martin, and Geralt, another musician we had met on the mountain, showed up at the restaurant we were playing at. They sat in and we played everything from folk to "When the saints go marching in." to "Happy Birthday," which caused the person to cry! (very sweet moment) It was such an honor and pleasure to get to be able to share and play amazing music with such fine musicians who invited me in with open arms.

An experience I will never forget.

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mzlynn74
mzlynn74
Sep 17, 2022

Goldfish- I told you, you'd find your tribe, and you have done so in every locale that you've been. "Connections", I love that,- they where least expect them. Keep educating us while you edify music💙

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